Have you ever used a desoldering tool like this?    I have several of those in my workshop, but I never liked them at all.   With printed circuit boards,  they easily damage the soldering islands.  Specially when restoring older electronics with those brown circuit boards, this is often a problem.   For free wired circuits they are no good,  because when you release the spring,  it  shoots agressively and damages 9 pins sockets easily.  I have tried several desoldering tools,  expensive ones,  with electric pumps.  They all have the same problem that they get stuck from particles, and you need to re-clean them every time.  Besides, they don't  take out the solder out of the PCB holes very well. They get stuck with larger drops, and when cleaning,  you get this poisonous dirt on your table. Yikes!  Wash your hands carefully.  Forget the expensive versions with electric pumps. They are only good for micro electronics, and when you continiously clean them. 

Some  months ago I was send this desoldering tool as a gift, by one of my material suppliers, just to try it out.  I was so pleased  with it,  that I decided to offer it for sale here.   It is a genious product, that works without violence, and has enough heat capacity (40Watt)  to melt larger solder joints.  It never gets stuck, no matter how much solder you remove at one time!  Vintage PCB's and tube sockets are not damaged any more, and when you're done,  this tool is easily cleaned!  You just hold it above a waste basket, and press it quickly a few times, and all solder is removed.  No need to take it apart, and no dirt produced.  When ordering,  please mind there is only the 230 Volt version available. Note this is old stock from around 2005

Wire cutter.  Simple but good version for a real attractive price! 

Solid Silver Solder. Large 100 gram roll.  

This is not pure silver, but an alloy, and you can solder this just with a normal solder iron. You do need the special flux with it that we sell also.  This is a liquid flux,  also excellent for litz wires.  Good silver soldering takes practice,  but it is easy to learn.  For best results take a lot of flux, and add more flux when you re-solder.  Remember that  with silver solder,  the flux will start to function when it is burned dark brown, by the heat of the soldering iron.  This is what is different with normal solder.  So take a higher temperature, if it will not flow good.  The burned flux can be removed later with alcohol, or other solvents like acetone or nitro.  It wil solve in almost anything, just not in water.  Use a small, hard brush to remove the flux.  Silver soldered joints will be bright and shiny, and look much better than normal solder.  They are mechanically stronger, because the silver solder is much harder than normal solder.  It is highly recommended for soldering silver wires, which are just mounted "loose"  in speaker cabinetts.  Silver conductor wires are harder material than copper, and this means the mechanical load on the solder joint  is much higher than you expect.   After some years, bad contacts may come when thick (>1mm) silver conductors are soldered with too soft solder.  This is not recommended.  So, use silver solder for silver wires thicker than 1mm.  Also, this silver solder will not give "cold" soldering joints so easily.